Like last year, we decided to split the fourth of July week into a
short Cali visit and a short Anniversary trip. This time, it was
destination, Vancouver, because why the hell not?
We flew in on the fourth and stayed in the
Wedgewood spa and hotel,
springing for the upgraded room, which had a Jacuzzi tub / bathroom
adjoining the bedroom and a completely separate bathroom and sitting
room with a patio that looked out over Robinson Square.
And, of course, a dozen roses and chocolates waiting for us!
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The first day, we visited the Vancouver Art Gallery, which was just down
the street. It had a number of rotating exhibitions. Several
of them were contemporary, the other two featured actual art (insert
small snicker here). The two "real" art exhibits included one on
Monet that focused on the gardens in
Giverny he spent his
last year in, but had a fascinating and remarkably broad set of
paintings that spanned his entire career. This is, I think, the
first time we've seen Monet paintings that were not part of his "light
effect" paintings or his water lily paintings, and it was interesting to
see how things progressed during his life, and how they became more and
more abstract as he developed cataracts. The second was a local
Vancouver artist from the early to mid nineteen hundred, Emily Carr.
The contemporary stuff... well, there are some examples below.
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Nothing says "this is art" like throwing a dead fish in the air while
taking a picture |
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My art, made of a picture of a picture of art, titled
"self-referential" |
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The "EMILY
CARR: INTO THE FOREST" exhibit was actually quite good |
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There was a guard making sure no one touched the "art" |
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I kid you not
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Performance art, or a real wedding? We were making bets |
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Of course. How obvious.
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Vancouver Art Gallery had a program for renting or buying art from the
local artists, proceeds of which support the Gallery. During our
honeymoon, we purchased some original art of the Rio Grande Gorge
outside Taos, where we stayed, and it seemed like it would be nice to do
the same thing here. There were some pretty amazing paintings and
with the exchange rate, they seemed like a good buy and a nice memento
of the trip; we ended up with five pieces in total. The VAG
thoughtfully contacted the artist to get descriptions of locations the
art represented and why the artist painted them, two of which are
included below!
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Afterwards, we did a long couples massage at the spa, and while we have
done that before, this one was a unique experience for Dave, who thought
maybe Vancouver was a little less body conscious than the US (the post
massage comment was "I don't know why they even bothered with the
sheet"). Then we did dinner in the Wedgewood's restaurant, the
Baccus, where we scored extra deserts and free wine for our anniversary!
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The next day was walking day; the weather was gorgeous, and
we decided to walk the perimeter of Stanley Park, which is
almost as big as Downtown, Coal Town, and West End combined (The
peninsula that is part of Vancouver proper).
On the back end, we walked down the beaches and took one of the
small ferries that run across the appropriately named False
Creek (it's really an inlet) to inappropriately named Granville
Island (it's really a peninsula). From there, we walked
back across to the hotel, the total circuit around 13 miles in
total.
Stanley park includes the world's longest uninterrupted
waterfront path. The 28 km Seaside greenway is an uninterrupted
pathway, including the Stanley Park Seawall. Walkers (like us)
and bikers have different paths, which was convenient. The
area that curves around the Vancouver shoreline has spectacular
views of the city, along with marinas mini-parks, and sea
planes. Sea planes seem to be iconic in Vancouver.
One thing about Stanley Park and Vancouver in general is that
it's a very clean city. We're not sure if that's just the
nature of the people that live there, or if they have a very
efficient city service, but the sidewalks were always clean, the
small grassy parks perfectly mowed, the trees stately and well
trimmed.
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The back side was more wildlife and coastline (although you could see
West and North Vancouver across the bay), with a huge number of sea
fowl, bridges, one statue called
"The Girl in
the Wetsuit" which seemed a little sexist, and as it turn out, was
very controversial, huge tankers slowly sailing by, and the iconic
Siwash rock.
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Got a frog in your throat? No, a fish! |
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We had no idea star fish where
edible, particularly when
they are swallowed whole
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Siwash rock |
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Siwash rock |
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Granville Island was a large shopping area with a farmer's market, a lot
of local artists that did ceramics and weaving, and whale watching and
sightseeing tours. We returned to downtown Vancouver via the
Granville Bridge, which had both fantastic views and was rather
exciting; you get about a quarter of the way across when there's a
crosswalk with no lights that goes across a four lane highway you have
to make it across.
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The False Creek Ferry |
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View from the bridge |
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We went back down to the seafront area near Stanley Park later that
evening to see what it looked like in the evening; there was a full moon
and the view was spectacular.
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The next day we went to the Museum of Vancouver. The MOV is the
largest civic museum in Canada and the oldest museum in Vancouver. It is
also the location of the H. R. MacMillan Space Centre, which is probably
why it is guarded by a giant metallic crustacean from outer space.
Fortunately, Alison was able to secure our passage by the ancient "dance
off" ritual from "Guardians of the Galaxy." The Space Center
was fun, mostly oriented toward children, and had a few interesting
displays (did you know there was a Russian version of the space shuttle
called the Buran that flew once and then was converted into a restaurant
in downtown Moscow?). But the MOV was very interesting; sort of a
combination of pop art and history lesson with a lot of
philosophical musing thrown in. One common thread in all of
Vancouver, however, was anti-bigotry, with frank descriptions of several
historical incidents where Asians, Musqueam indians, and Muslims were
targeted by the European settlers.
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So then, there is one other thing to mention, which is Bauhaus, a
restaurant we picked because it was ranked number one in Vancouver by
TripAdvisor, which is normally pretty accurate.
It started as one of those "is Tripadvisor steering us wrong?" type
of moments, because Bauhaus is in a dicey location in Gastown, where we
were literally walking past homeless people with the haunted, vacant
look of heroin users. Plus, it's billed as German cuisine, which doesn't
sound all that inspiring. Walking in, the decor is nice, but not
spectacular. The service was superior (which is one step down from
"exemplary," which I've seen at one or two places).
Then you start in on the food.
We just came back from two weeks in France and ate at some of the finest
restaurants in Provence and Paris; this beat them, hands down. And you
rapidly realize that the staff is truly passionate about what they do,
and they love having people that recognize the skill that went into the
preparation of the dish. The presentation was top notch as well; they
served each dish in a bowl or plate that was selected to match the
colors and texture of the meal. We ended up coming back the next night
to try the six course meal and wine pairing... and this is the only time
I've ever said that not only did they all work together perfectly; the
wine was so good I'm going to go try to find it at the local wine shop
when I get home. It was, without question, the best meal I’ve ever had.
We are really thinking of going back to Vancouver simply to eat at this
restaurant again.
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Bauhaus round 2!
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Ok, this is actually breakfast at the Wedgewood hotel, which was
included; they made their own smoked salmon and corn beef hash
on premises! |
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We flew back on July 8th, with a little howl at the moon with a
local wolf to send us on our way. Well, ok, at the sun.
In the airport. With a big stuffed animal. But the
coffee was good.
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